Tango: A subculture of Buenos Aires
January 28, 2007

Buenos Aires is renowned for it´s tango scene. Unanimously promoted among the top 3 must see, must do activities when visiting Buenos Aires, one is presented with many opportunities to experience this unique subculture. When Sterling and I first arrived, we were introduced to tango via a large-scale dinnershow, complete with dozens of professional dancers, singers, and musicians. It was a highly entertaining way to learn a bit about the history and art of tango. From this first experience, I was hooked. Check out the videoclip from the show below…amazing!




After this initial taste, I decided to give it a go and was invited to join a group class with some friends. I quickly realized that this was no easy collection of steps, but an intense, intricate non-verbal communication between two individuals. Tango works both mind and body and is a guarenteed way to work up a sweat. I admit, after my first lesson I was a bit discouraged and mildly overwhelmed. Having practiced with a fellow beginner, my feet were also a bit tender. Regardless, a hint of optimism remained and I persisted. I have since taken one or two lessons per week and have frequented many events, known as milongas. I have a long way to go but I think I can safely say that I´m getting pretty good at this and having an incredible time in the process!

Milongas are events that happen every night of the week, all over the city. They start at 11 p.m. and finish anytime between 4 a.m. – 8 a.m. The venues vary a great deal, but generally speaking, there is a large dance floor lined with tables along the perimeter going a few rows deep. Milongas attract people of all ages. In fact, it isn´t uncommon for the largest demographic to be men and women over the age of 65, although there are plenty of clubs for young people to explore new age tango music called electro tango.

People sit in groups or as couples, but one usually attends milongas with the intention of dancing with other regulars and select strangers. Unlike conventional dance clubs, there is a great deal of respect between dancers and an extensive array of traditions and rules. When it comes to these rules, I find myself in the dark more so than not, but I do know that the key is eye contact. No matter how far away, if you want to dance with someone, you must establish eye contact for a few seconds, then the man looks away and the test is when he looks back. If the woman is still looking, this is an invitation for him to get up from his seat and invite her to dance. One usually dances four consecutive songs and then both return to their respective seats. Technically, one is not supposed to dance with the same individual for the rest of the night. Also, if someone arrives to the milonga arm in arm with someone else, this is a signal that they are off limits for proposals, etc. Etc. It´s actually quite fascinating to watch the games being played, but I have to remind myself to be careful sometimes or I could accidentally break a few hearts. (Ref: Rule #1)

Last night I went to my first outdoor milonga. Wish I had pictures! It was such a beautiful venue and unique experience - to dance under the open sky, on a circular dance floor with a fountain in the middle, soft, colourful lighting and enchanting music. I went with about ten people from my tango class and we all sat together, had a few drinks, and danced till five in the morning.

Below is a small collection of tango pictures I´ve taken in Buenos Aires. Enjoy!

The Beaches of Uruguay

January 12, 2007

Just got back from a short vacation to Punta del Este. This is a beautiful and unique peninsula just a short ferry ride and 4 hour bus ride from Buenos Aires. On the one side, you have beaches along the Rio del Plata (the widest river in the world, bordering both Uruguay and Argentina) and along the other side, just a 4 block walk, you have beaches along the Atlantic Ocean. The water was warm, the sand soft, and the sky a mixture of sun, fog, and clouds. An absolute pleasure really - to spend hours on the beach, body surfing, reading and relaxing. That is, until 5 hours later you realize that the UV rays were magnified by the fog and clouds which kept your body cool while frying your skin. That´s right, the three of us (Sterling, Sabrena and I) experienced the worst buns of our lives, and of course, the very first day which made for a challenging, creative beach vacation. We shifted our schedule, dogged the peak hours and jumped from shady patch to shady patch, but still managed to enjoy ourselves thoroughly. I won´t get into the details of our burn treatment, including our first trip to a hospital in BA, but we certainly learned our lesson.

Bringing in the New Year like a true Porteño!

January 1, 2007

Well, well, what can I say....when in Rome I guess... What a night. New Years Eve was incredible. Started off with an outdoor symphony and tango show on Avenida de Julio (widest avenue in the world) It was in fact a free concert hosted by the famous conductor Daniel Barenboim, hosted in the name of Peace and Unity and attended by Israeli and Palestinian Ambassadors, who enjoyed the show side by side. Ten thousand people gathered on the street, shoulder to shoulder to enjoy the Buenos Aires Philharmonic Orchestra as well as a famous Argentine tango orchestra. The two groups actually merged at some points and created the most incredible, unique sound. Never have I heard four accordians join a 100+ classical orchestra. This unforgettable experience was followed by a 12 o´clock celebratory toast and 360 degree fireworks show put on by local residents in a funky little plaza in the district of Palermo. I was joined by Sterling and his sister Sabrena, as well as a small collection of internationals and locals gathered in the square. So many laughs, and fun encounters with strangers. I swear we were hanging out with a few of the characters from Happy Feet (the animated film) for a while. From here, we met up with some of our friends who had been dining in a restaurant nearby and together we hit a local dance floor. Had so much fun that I couldn´t believe my eyes when we left the club at 8 a.m, but the festivities did not end there. No, this was followed by a quick drop in to a tango club around the corner and a little breakfast before jumping in a cab towards home at 10 a.m. Not something I would do very often, that´s for sure, but what a night to remember! I am confident that this year is lining up to be a monumental year in my life and I am very excited about working towards my resolutions. Wishing you all the very best for a rewarding 2007.