Feliz Navidad!

What an incredible day! Not only was I in beautiful Buenos Aires, but it was the first Christmas Sterling and I had ever spent together alone. Well, that being the case, we were keen on doing things a little differently. Let´s face it, egg nog by the fire just wasn´t going to work here.

To start things off, we had a leisurly morning in bed, amused by spanish christmas cartoons before heading to our balcony for a cup of dark roast coffee and a whole lot of sunshine. Today was a particularly beautiful summer day, so after a cold shower we decided to grab a little brunch on a patio just down the street. Considering how quiet the streets were, this place was packed. We sipped on freshly squeezed lemonade with soda and munched on a couple of omelettes. This was followed by a scoop of gelato at one of the many gourmet parlours in town as well a stroll through our neighbourhood to pick up some flowers as well as a few last ingredients for our Christmas dinner.

The afternoon was spent listening to music of all varieties and connecting with family and friends by phone and email. We also enjoyed a brief gift exchange around our 2 foot tall semi-tropical Christmas tree. (that´s right, plastic bananas. Tried to find red chilies too!) Around four o´clock we started to prepare a delicious roast from a recipe in our new cook book! (thanks Dad...it was delicious!) A pretty simple day I suppose, but highly highly enjoyable.

In order to properly recap Christmas though, I really ought to include a few other details...

When my father was here a few days prior, he and I had our own celebration of Christmas together by attending Bach´s Christmas Oratorio at the beautiful San Benito Abado Cathedral in Belgrano. It was performed by the Buenos Aires Filharmonic and included an eighty person choir as well as four soloists. All I can say is wow! Check out the photo below.

Also....

Argentines traditionally host Christmas dinner on the 24th and Sterling and I had heard that fireworks were a great tradition on Christmas eve. So wouldn´t you know it, at 12 o´clock sharp, the whole city came alive. From our balcony, we could see all sorts of colours in the sky as families convened on the rooftops of apartment buildings to light them afire. Meanwhile people rejoiced at the top of their lungs with the words Felices Fiestas and Feliz Navidad. We decided to go for a stroll in the hopes that we would experience some of this energy first hand. We were delighted to find all varieties of extended families gathered on the streets, celebrating with sparklers and noisemakers while children danced around, grinning from ear to ear.

All in all, an incredible Christmas.

Wishing you all the very same back home. Happy holidays!

A taste of Patagonia

December 17, 2006

Puerto Madryn was incredible. To my surprise, despite an 18 hour drive south, the terrain was not as lush and green as I had imagined. It was in fact very arid but beautiful none-the-less. My Dad, Sterling and I stayed at the Hotel Posadyn, an absolute oasis in the desert. The grounds were lush and serene and the service was impeccable. Below is a picture of my dad and I enjoying the garden prior to a scrumptious seafood dinner in town.

The next day, we went on a tour of the Valdez Peninsula, home to elephant seals, right whales, penquins, ostriches, lamas, sea lions and other interesting animals whose names have escaped me. Pretty incredible sights. Well worth the trip. Check out the pics below.

Taking a moment to reflect on what we had just seen

The next couple of days were spent on the beach. Unfortunately we didn´t luck out in the weather department which included overcast and a pretty impressive sandstorm, but we still had a great time reading, chatting and eating a whole lot of seafood and ice cream. The beaches go on for miles and would highly recommend them in good weather.

Picture of sand storm

Ster and I at site of elephant seals

Visit from Dad
December 12, 2006

A couple of weeks ago, my dad phoned me up out of the blue to say that he would be coming to visit. What a nice surprise! Well, he arrived on Sunday and we´ve been going non-stop ever since. Despite the two hour time difference and the cultural adjustment, my dad eased right into the swing of things. We´ve been walking the streets, taking in the architecture, eating decadent food and sipping Argentine wine and good cognac till the wee hours of the morning ever since. We even squeezed in a private tango lesson, all in the last 48 hours.

Tonight, the three of us will be taking an 18 hour ¨cama bus¨ south along the coast to Puerto Madryn. I´m told a cama bus far surpasses business class on a commercial airline, offering huge seats that recline 170 degrees and serving hot meals and bar service along the way. Puerto Madryn is a small beach town close to the Valdez Peninsula where elephant seals, whales, sea lions, penguins and other oceanic wildlife live. We plan to explore the reserve and enjoy the beautiful beaches in the surrounding areas for the next 4 days. Will be sure to post pictures and share our adventures when we return this Sunday.

Sunday in San Telmo
December 3, 2006

Today was another gorgeous day in Buenos Aires. It being a Sunday, our options were parks, markets or cafes. We decided to do all three in a neat part of town called San Telmo. Sunday is the busiest day in this area by far as it hosts a large market of artisans, musicians and antique dealers. I´m not quite sure how many square blocks are dedicated to the market, but it kept Sterling and I walking all afternoon. After a couple hours of wondering, we stopped for lunch and enjoyed some of Buenos Aires renowned barbeque and a cold beer. With our batteries charged once more, we enjoyed the performances of many local musicians before heading home.

Below are a small selection of photos from our visit to San Telmo today.

Thinking of you all back home.
Bye for now!

Sam

The Quirks of Buenos Aires
November 28, 2006

Thought some of you might be interested in reading about some of the common sights and customs that I feel differentiate Buenos Aires from Toronto and many other Canadian cities.

1. There seems to be a real pregnancy trend here. Quite bizarre really. It seems 50% of women are 6-9 months pregnant. No joke. That being said, I think it´s safe to assume that 25% of the remaining women are in early stages of pregnancy. Catholicism certainly plays a central role, but still, it´s truly hard to believe my eyes sometimes. That being said, the small parades of parents walking toddlers to school/daycare in the morning is a site to be seen. I love witnessing the variety of mini-me personalities walking hand-in-hand with mom or kids on dad´s shoulders, talking and singing to each other. Sterling and I are definitely getting our good share of gawwgaww moments in but sorry mom and dad, no babies will be coming home with us any time soon.

2. The second most frequently seen subject on the street is doggy poop. Word of warning, although you may be tempted to look up at the stunning architecture or fashionable shops, keep your eyes peeled. The Government has obviously failed to invest in a poop & scoop campaign, and if the poop doesn´t get you, the beautiful but ancient, tiled sidewalks will.

3. Senior generations are incredibly active and the women are in particularly great shape. Those that I´ve had the pleasure of speaking with seem to have a real thirst for life and a very positive energy. Just the other day, a woman asked me for my arm while waiting to cross the street. We had the nicest chat and it really made my day.

4. On a related note, watch out for busses and cabs when crossing the street. They are by far the craziest drivers. In fact, don´t expect ANY car to stop for a pedestrian at the curb. Pedestrians DO NOT have the right of way here.

5. If you have a sweet tooth like me, this is the place to be. If you´re not careful, you can easily have desserts with every meal. (much of the time, they come free with your coffee and other purchases) I´ve also become very familiar with Dulce de Leche. (sweet of milk) I´m here to tell you, EVERYTHING has dulce de leche in it. And I don´t blame them! If there´s one thing that competes with dulce de leche, it´s ice cream. Porteños love their ice cream, any time of day!

6. If you´re looking to get your haircut or buy some new shoes/clothes, there are millions of stores to choose from! On the other hand, if you´re looking for a large variety of packaged foods in the supermarkets, look elsewhere. It´s all about fresh meat, bread, dairy, and vegetables. (I´m not complaining, just different) I´d like to add that not only is this healthier, it reduces the amount of packaging that ends up in landfills. Now, if only they could just put propper mufflers on their cars and switch to unleaded!

7. If cooking’s not for you, be prepared to take a seat and wait. In fact, very few items are available TO GO. Coffee doesn´t always fit into the category either as many places do not have disposable cups. I´ve even seen waiters on the street delivering trays of cappuccino to nearby offices with cups and saucers. If you´re looking for a quick bite, your options are sandwiches, empanadas and lots of sweet treats. There are no health food convenience items or even fast food varieties like pizza, other than the occasional McDonalds. Also, it is not uncommon to go unacknowledged for 10 minutes or more, so don´t take it personally. The waiters are not trying to be rude; that´s just the way it´s done here.

8. On an entirely separate note, an interesting cultural difference exists in one´s relationship with the poor. In fact very little begging exists here. Instead, one sees individuals and families on the streets from 6-9 p.m. going through the garbage for any and all recyclables before the garbage trucks arrive. Everyone is very focused and work very hard, never stopping to solicit others. I am also amazed by the near non-existence of drug and alcohol abuse, or for that matter, mental health disorders. Those that are poor have obviously come by very hard times, but by no means is it a result of the many self-destructive practices we often see in North America. I am currently looking into volunteer opportunities and look forward to working with less priviledged individuals when my Spanish improves.

9. As a final note, Porteños are a very warm and generous people. I´ve discovered most are genuinely interested in who you are and where you´re from and rarely do I sense impatience or rudeness when attempting to communicate with them. It´s truly a pleasure to share their beautiful city with them.

Much love to you all back home,

Sam

A snapshot of B.A.
November 19, 2006

Hello All!

Just enjoying the simplicities of day-to-day life here in Buenos Aires, but realize I have neglected to write anything for my travel blog in almost a week. My apologies for those that have been checking in daily. I have a few interesting topics planned, but until I sit down to write them, here are a few pictures for your viewing pleasure.

La Boca
November 13, 2006

This morning, for the first time in our relationship, Sterling and I walked to school together. He even carried my books. The Spanish school we chose to attend is called Hispanaries and it's just seven blocks from our apartment. The teachers are wonderful and there are relatively few students, so it kind of feels like a family. In fact, Buenos Aires born residents, known as Portenos, are such informal and welcoming people that one finds oneself kissing strangers all the time. (just one kiss, not two)

Sterling and I have decided to start with semi-private lessons to really kick-start the process and our teacher, Nuria, is terrific. Apparently, Sterling and I are really speeding through the material so far, but I'm sure the pace will slow significantly once we encounter entirely new material.

One hour into the class,everyone at the school broke for coffee, which gave us a chance to meet and chat with the other students and teachers. Today was our first day and that of three other students, so the school treated us to a delicious lunch of empaniadas. (By far the best I have ever had!) And as if that wasn't enough, following lunch about ten of us went on a guided tour of La Boca; a small neighbourhood famous for it's colourful architecture and the origin of tango. Apparently each week the school provides a tour of different barrios (neighbourhoods). This, I've discovered, is not only a great way to familiarize yourself with the city and its history, but also a terrific way to practice Spanish with other students (and milk a few more lessons out of the teachers for free)

Below are some pictures from our walk about La Boca.

Que Rico!
November 12, 2006

What a life! I really could not ask for more. I sleep well, eat well, go to the gym daily, connect with friends/family and study Spanish. Truly, these are my shared number one priorities. I've also come to South America to reflect on my life and where I want to take it, how I want to grow (professionally and personally) and how I'm going to make that happen.

Having saved a good chunk of change over the last six months, I have afforded myself these privileges. Most importantly, the opportunity to step back and take some time for myself while my life is still relatively uncomplicated. (No kids, no mortgage, and no significant professional commitments tying me to Toronto.)

That being said, I'm overjoyed to share that my investment in myself has already paid off and I've only been here a week and a half. The degree of clarity one can attain is really amazing when one allows oneself to relax and take the pressure off - to just BE. For instance, I like to spend the first hour of each day with a cup of coffee, my journal and a few rays of sunshine on our balcony. (the picture above is of Sterling enjoying a similar moment to himself.) With this greatly simplified life I have created for myself in Buenos Aires, I am much more inclined to take the time to think and write for myself and have already sorted through a few areas of confusion, both professional and emotional.

Although I do not intend to share these revelations on this blog, I thought it important to mention this incredible benefit of traveling and generally stepping outside of one's normal routine to develop a broader perspective of one's life.

As an aside, many people have commented on the beautiful apartment that Sterling and I are living in and the likely expense of this move. Let me say that Sterling and I are not rich by the conventional North American definition and this kind of experience is 100% doable; It just takes a little planning. As many of you know, leading up to our move I was working part-time in communications for a hospital and bartending two nights a week at a club. With the money I saved, I will probably live well for the better part of a year without having to work, which will allow me to take advantage of opportunities, paid or otherwise, which are truly rewarding and beneficial to my personal growth and career.

As a final thought, keep in mind that everything is possible, and in this life there are endless possibilities...

El comer!
November 7, 2006

Ah the food! There is absolutely everything one could possibly want and Sterling and I are determined to eat our way through Buenos Aires and from there, the rest of South America! Not only is it delicious, but the portions are out of this world and so are the prices. To top it off, they give you free stuff with every course. You don't even have to order dessert because they give you delicious sample-size servings with your coffee. You have to watch out for the breads though, they are to die for and you can
easily fill up of them before the 16oz steak. We've also been sampling the many wine-making regions of Argentina and have quite a ways to go still. Thank goodness we found a great gym today, just 4 blocks from our pad. It has a real neighbourhood feel and a variety of classes to kick my butt and keep me motivated. We plan to go every day except Sunday (when everything is closed in Buenos Aires) so that we can eat whatever we want and get real fit before enjoying the beaches of Uruguay and Brazil in the New Year. Apparently Uruguay is just 30 minutes by ferry from Buenos Aires - Amazing news since Buenos Aires is not exactly a beach town. Don't get me wrong, I'm really not complaining. I'll take 25-30 degrees and breezy anyday, beaches or no beaches. Sorry Canada, hope you're not too cold these days. Much love everyone!

La lengua española
November 6, 2006

Spanish, what a beautiful language! I can't wait to be fluent. When I first arrived, I admit, I was definitely out of my element. Before landing I thought I could get by for a while knowing a few basic sentences with my solid comprehension of Latin languages and their structure. Man was I wrong. I've got to tell you, I'm not used to having difficulty communicating with people. Usually I can dance around sentences and somehow make my point, but these days, I can't form a proper sentence to save my life and people sound like they are talking in fast forward! The first 24 hours were so bad, I sent Sterling out to buy us coffees while I hid in our apartment because I was too embarrassed of my language skills and scared of the possiblity of someone striking up a conversation. Now I'm pleased to say that after a few days of studying and a little practice in the streets, I'm eager to meet new people and test my abilities. Sterling and I were so eager to learn, we even went to see a Spanish film on our second night and understood about 10 words, but hey, we tried. Apart from that, we've been watching a lot of spanish T.V., listening to a lot of Spanish music and reading anything we can get our hands on. I'm confident that we will be fully conversational by the end of the month. (that's not to say articulate...but it's a start)

Cemetario de Recoletta
November 5,2006

Today, Sterling and I went to visit the famous cemetary of Buenos Aires. I've never seen one remotely like this before. Miles of walkways lines with tombs and vaults, elaborately decorated with sculpture, flowers, historical photographs and personal treasures. Around the perimeter, outside the walls of the cemetary, is a large market made up of hundreds of vendors selling the most beautiful hand-made crafts. Sterling and I fought our temptation to shop that day, but I'm sure we'll be back soon. (it's only a 15 minute walk from our apartment so it looks like a few presents will make it in the mail this Christmas.) Instead of shopping, we decided to pick up a couple of coffees para llevar (to go) - A phrase firmly implanted in our memory now after struggling with sherades time and time again. Took our coffees and headed for one of the many grassy parkettes at our disposal. (another fine attribute of this beautiful city) Once again, blessed with gorgeous weather, we quickly removed as many unneccessary layers of clothing we could and soaked up a few rays.


a small portion of the cemetary


recoletta cemetary

Buenos Aires Parkettes

Hola Buenos Aires!
November 2, 2006

Me sitting at the computer writing this blog post

One of many spectacular views of our apartment


view from our balcony

Well, it’s for real now. I’m sitting in my beautiful apartment in Buenos Aires, sipping a delicious glass of Argentinean wine, reflecting on the events of the last 48 hours. It’s hard to believe that I was just in Toronto having a final supper with my family, handing out Halloween candy on a chilly fall day and now I’m walking the streets of an unknown city in a t-shirt and flip flops with my future yet to be determined.

Today was just gorgeous! (twenty-two degrees, sunny) Sterling and I started off the day with a café con leche and a media-luna (cappuccino and croissant) at a quaint corner spot. From there we toured around our neighbourhood, just window shopping, taking photos and generally getting the lay of the land. We live in a district known as Recoletta, perhaps the hottest district in the city. Very high end stuff, comprable to Yorkville but the architecture is far more beautiful and the people far more delightful. Despite our minimal Spanish, we have been treated with utmost respect and patience. And let me tell you, there is absolutely no English anywhere! So much for any ideas I may have had to coast for a while on my comprehension of Latin languages. I can’t even understand the menu items, let alone the people. Time to crack the books!

Our street - Uruguay

Neighbourhood restaurants

Buenos Aires is an interesting mixture of New York, Paris, Rome and Havana in my opinion. Very cosmopolitan, a little grungy, but very rich in history and culture. Sterling and I are looking forward to the Spanish cinema, music and dancing. We were given some great tips by a local photographer with a real passion for the arts. Although we plan on being modest, we are certainly excited by the exchange rate here. It’s like we jumped a couple of “snack brackets” overnight. Almost everything costs a third of the price in North America! Today, we decided to treat ourselves somewhat and bought some CDs, artwork (photograph from the artist mentioned above) and a gorgeous dress and earrings for me to wear out on the town.





Tomorrow we are going to explore an area called Boca, known for its traditional Spanish architecture and tango street performers. Hope to pick up some tips so I can hit the dance floor soon in my new dress.

By the way, for those I failed to give my personal email before I left, here you go... sam_flatman@hotmail.com Please write me from time to time to let me know how you're doing. Until then...